Dar es Salaam - Harbour of Peace

I find myself yet again in a city of contrasts, I suppose when reflecting on the African countries I have visited and lived in, this is the reality. Be it East, South or North, there are hubs of wealthy people, living in big houses, with western style shopping centres and restaurants (and something relatively new to me), International Schools. This in itself suggests that there are copious amounts of foreigners living in Dar es Salaam...this and the 2 hour wait to get a visa at the airport.


I have been staying in a digs (more Rhodes than UCT) in a very smart area on the peninsular of Dar es Salaam. And I must admit I think I could definitely spend more time here. It has a beachy, relaxed feel about it, as if life is just allowed to happen. I found a couple of great potential wine/cocktail drinking spots on the water too, along with the infamous Yacht Club (although to be fair, the crowd that I am currently spending time with, seem to be the tea totalling volunteer type, that enjoy good food, but less keen on a large bottle of wine – which lets be honest, I could do with every so often).

This brings me to the dynamic of the development world and expats coming to do interesting work in Africa (I admit I am one of them). While I pride myself in working (for a stipend) for an organisation that focuses on business solutions poverty – as opposed to aid, it is still very interesting that so many foreigners feel it is necessary to either give money or expertise, to ‘help’ this country. Were they invited? Or did people decide it was a good idea? I imagine a combination – which has been realised in big donors needing ‘their own people’ to ensure their money is correctly spent. Which in all honesty is fair enough, as I look at hundreds of thousands of dollars going into the Serengeti and other national parks everyday, with very little to show for it...except large government houses in Dar, I LOVE this place!!!

While the Dar part of my adventure has been relatively protected, I hate to admit that I quite like our little ‘Burb’ near the sea. I have sampled Dar beans and rice (mmm, just like that in Arusha) and have been driving around in Bijaj’s (like tuk tuks). And trying my best to start speaking bit more Swahili – I can now order food (well...rice and beans and coke). Karibu Tanzania...I cant wait to have friends to play with!