Dar es Salaam - Harbour of Peace

I find myself yet again in a city of contrasts, I suppose when reflecting on the African countries I have visited and lived in, this is the reality. Be it East, South or North, there are hubs of wealthy people, living in big houses, with western style shopping centres and restaurants (and something relatively new to me), International Schools. This in itself suggests that there are copious amounts of foreigners living in Dar es Salaam...this and the 2 hour wait to get a visa at the airport.


I have been staying in a digs (more Rhodes than UCT) in a very smart area on the peninsular of Dar es Salaam. And I must admit I think I could definitely spend more time here. It has a beachy, relaxed feel about it, as if life is just allowed to happen. I found a couple of great potential wine/cocktail drinking spots on the water too, along with the infamous Yacht Club (although to be fair, the crowd that I am currently spending time with, seem to be the tea totalling volunteer type, that enjoy good food, but less keen on a large bottle of wine – which lets be honest, I could do with every so often).

This brings me to the dynamic of the development world and expats coming to do interesting work in Africa (I admit I am one of them). While I pride myself in working (for a stipend) for an organisation that focuses on business solutions poverty – as opposed to aid, it is still very interesting that so many foreigners feel it is necessary to either give money or expertise, to ‘help’ this country. Were they invited? Or did people decide it was a good idea? I imagine a combination – which has been realised in big donors needing ‘their own people’ to ensure their money is correctly spent. Which in all honesty is fair enough, as I look at hundreds of thousands of dollars going into the Serengeti and other national parks everyday, with very little to show for it...except large government houses in Dar, I LOVE this place!!!

While the Dar part of my adventure has been relatively protected, I hate to admit that I quite like our little ‘Burb’ near the sea. I have sampled Dar beans and rice (mmm, just like that in Arusha) and have been driving around in Bijaj’s (like tuk tuks). And trying my best to start speaking bit more Swahili – I can now order food (well...rice and beans and coke). Karibu Tanzania...I cant wait to have friends to play with!

Cold showers and gas stoves

Those of us that complained about load shedding from Eskom, had obviously never lived in Tanzania....Tanesco (Tanzania electricty Supply Company), announced the increase of power rationing to 12 hours a day....I am sure it past that milestone a while ago.

The bulk of Tanzania is supplied by Hydo electricty. Thus,  due to severe droughts the water levels at the main power dam have been very low, putting a lot of pressure on electricity supply....and hot showers in Wisteria lane (more about that another time). There is a generator, but it is not particularly inclined to functioning when anything with an element is turned on and likes to take hourly breaks, for half an hour to cool down.

In light of this it is important to wake up very early, or take a shower whenever the electricity is on, as it may be the last hot shower for a few days.

ARUUUUSHA

From Kenya, to London, to Johannesburg and Viljoenskroon...my journey over the past two years has landed me in... in Arusha, Tanzania, let the adventure begin!

While I have a way to go in establishing myself and finding my feet in Arusha, there are a couple of things I have learnt in my first week here:

Cuisine: Chicken and chips seems to be an all out favourite!!!

             A couple of good curry spots, pizza, breakfast paninis and lots and lots of braais

Beer: Tusker is out, Kilimanjaro is in

Wine: Mmmm, put it this way, the wine you can afford requires plenty of ice!

Places to eat: Nicks Pub (chicken and chips....or chicken and chips!), its a must, its local, fingers only...and dont forget to wash your hands. 

Curry Pot - same sauce, different meat

Blue Heron - Pizza

Little caravan up the road - beans and rice, delicious :)

Nicks Pub

 

Places to drink: Anywhere, everywhere...but very important, The Oscar Bar. Only by invitation and only with a captain morgan and crate of beer. Have also found a fairly swanky Mt Meru Hotel, which serves cocktails, have yet to sample...but kind of like a Westcliff treat I think. 

I have the Serengeti on my doorstep and Mt Meru on the way to work. There is a rumour Mt Kilimajaro is just next door too, but I have yet to see it - so watch this space x

And...Karibuni Arusha any time!!!