Dukas and dusty roads

  

The adventure continues... My colleague, or rather client has been blessed with a better education than me, a family business to take over and the laziness gene like I have never experienced in my life. I have been blessed with dealing with this gene everyday and being told "Dont worry Claire, it is the Tanzanian way - you will have relaxed a bit by next year". I have however noticed that not every Tanzanian Research and Development Manager starts work between 9 and 11 everyday and knocks off again at about 3.30. 

That said he is a genial sort of guy, that knows the whole of Arusha especially every lady, and stops to chat to everyone he knows whenever we see them (which takes another hour off the day). 

My colleague (Left)  and his sales manager doing some research in Karatu

My colleague (Left)  and his sales manager doing some research in Karatu

                                

We have been tasked to do a commercial market study for the potential of Corn Soya Blend (a nutritious porridge, basically e-pap) in Tanzania. This is taking us far and further offcentre into the middle of Tanzania, where I am getting used to being pointed at by watoto (children) yelling MZUNGU (whitey), giggling and running away. 

                                        

Morning in Karatu

When I wish you were with me:

1. I was so well behaved and didnt complain at all about where we stayed - however got teased all the way home when I refused to use any of the public loos. 

2. I have officially decided that there is no need for knives and forks at our wedding - 3 days of finger food, be it whole fried fish, beans and rice or omellette. 

lunch day1

Lunch Day 2

                                                 
                                               

                                           

3. Squatting all the way!!

4. TKZ in the area - blasting out of Kevin (the colleagues) ghetto blaster speakers as the old combie we were in overheated

5. Louisiana State University T-shirt in a small town called Mto Wa Mbu (far from Baton Rouge Weez)

6. Ordering a Konyagi (local gin) and tonic and getting the whole bottle of Konyagi - straight up!

7.Deep fried Talapia-  whole thing - fins, eyes, tail and all for supper...quite tasty actually!!

8. Someones dundies hanging from the curtains of my first hotel room - a rather large lady judging by the size

9. Wali na Maharage (rice and beans) for lunch three days in row...the alternative was just too difficult to chew...I may not be a hotel snob, but when it comes to red meat...I am a farmers daughter after all. 

                                                  

On the way to my bathroom at Giraffe Executive suits - slip slops c/o the last occupant?

In my bathroom Griraffe executive suites hotel, Karatu

Dar es Salaam - Harbour of Peace

I find myself yet again in a city of contrasts, I suppose when reflecting on the African countries I have visited and lived in, this is the reality. Be it East, South or North, there are hubs of wealthy people, living in big houses, with western style shopping centres and restaurants (and something relatively new to me), International Schools. This in itself suggests that there are copious amounts of foreigners living in Dar es Salaam...this and the 2 hour wait to get a visa at the airport.


I have been staying in a digs (more Rhodes than UCT) in a very smart area on the peninsular of Dar es Salaam. And I must admit I think I could definitely spend more time here. It has a beachy, relaxed feel about it, as if life is just allowed to happen. I found a couple of great potential wine/cocktail drinking spots on the water too, along with the infamous Yacht Club (although to be fair, the crowd that I am currently spending time with, seem to be the tea totalling volunteer type, that enjoy good food, but less keen on a large bottle of wine – which lets be honest, I could do with every so often).

This brings me to the dynamic of the development world and expats coming to do interesting work in Africa (I admit I am one of them). While I pride myself in working (for a stipend) for an organisation that focuses on business solutions poverty – as opposed to aid, it is still very interesting that so many foreigners feel it is necessary to either give money or expertise, to ‘help’ this country. Were they invited? Or did people decide it was a good idea? I imagine a combination – which has been realised in big donors needing ‘their own people’ to ensure their money is correctly spent. Which in all honesty is fair enough, as I look at hundreds of thousands of dollars going into the Serengeti and other national parks everyday, with very little to show for it...except large government houses in Dar, I LOVE this place!!!

While the Dar part of my adventure has been relatively protected, I hate to admit that I quite like our little ‘Burb’ near the sea. I have sampled Dar beans and rice (mmm, just like that in Arusha) and have been driving around in Bijaj’s (like tuk tuks). And trying my best to start speaking bit more Swahili – I can now order food (well...rice and beans and coke). Karibu Tanzania...I cant wait to have friends to play with!

Cold showers and gas stoves

Those of us that complained about load shedding from Eskom, had obviously never lived in Tanzania....Tanesco (Tanzania electricty Supply Company), announced the increase of power rationing to 12 hours a day....I am sure it past that milestone a while ago.

The bulk of Tanzania is supplied by Hydo electricty. Thus,  due to severe droughts the water levels at the main power dam have been very low, putting a lot of pressure on electricity supply....and hot showers in Wisteria lane (more about that another time). There is a generator, but it is not particularly inclined to functioning when anything with an element is turned on and likes to take hourly breaks, for half an hour to cool down.

In light of this it is important to wake up very early, or take a shower whenever the electricity is on, as it may be the last hot shower for a few days.

ARUUUUSHA

From Kenya, to London, to Johannesburg and Viljoenskroon...my journey over the past two years has landed me in... in Arusha, Tanzania, let the adventure begin!

While I have a way to go in establishing myself and finding my feet in Arusha, there are a couple of things I have learnt in my first week here:

Cuisine: Chicken and chips seems to be an all out favourite!!!

             A couple of good curry spots, pizza, breakfast paninis and lots and lots of braais

Beer: Tusker is out, Kilimanjaro is in

Wine: Mmmm, put it this way, the wine you can afford requires plenty of ice!

Places to eat: Nicks Pub (chicken and chips....or chicken and chips!), its a must, its local, fingers only...and dont forget to wash your hands. 

Curry Pot - same sauce, different meat

Blue Heron - Pizza

Little caravan up the road - beans and rice, delicious :)

Nicks Pub

 

Places to drink: Anywhere, everywhere...but very important, The Oscar Bar. Only by invitation and only with a captain morgan and crate of beer. Have also found a fairly swanky Mt Meru Hotel, which serves cocktails, have yet to sample...but kind of like a Westcliff treat I think. 

I have the Serengeti on my doorstep and Mt Meru on the way to work. There is a rumour Mt Kilimajaro is just next door too, but I have yet to see it - so watch this space x

And...Karibuni Arusha any time!!!

Hakuna Matata

Rules to abide on future African Adventures (ie...lessons learnt on this one):

1. If the guide book suggests a 4x4 vehicle, take a 4x4
2. Either rent a vehicle from a reputable source, or trust your gut instincts (or your sisters), even if it does cost a bit more
3. Dont rent from a company that charges you cash up front
4. Check all equipment including jacks, spares, triangles etc before setting off
5. Dont hire a car that has a certificate of good conduct in the cubby hole

6. Dont forget paper towelling
7. Take 2 spare tyres
8. Be creative in breadmaking, but add salt and not sugar for the bread, as opposed to cake flavour
9. In the HIGHLY unlikely event you get a puncture and your jack doesn't work, and you have to walk through buffalo and elephant infested territory, only to find another jack that doesn't work, either a) Pile rocks under your car so that you can place the jack onto another rock to make it jack higher or b) Reverse the opposite wheels onto a bank to get the car into a position where the flat tyre is hanging in mid air (stand on opp wheel if necessary). Change tyre.
10. Use icey water from the taps or river as a fridge -white wine and Tuskers are always better cold
11. Take Hot water bottles or down sleeping bags
12. If you dont have a braai, make stok brood on the living room fire (add salt not sugar to bread)
12. Not for sensitive adventurers, best to have a handy male around who can deal with such things as baking bread and changing tyres

Fishing Lodge - Aberdares

If I were to start a yoga retreat or find a place to finish off a book I have found the place. In fact I found the place where one can recuperate and totally relax in 2 days (If that is, you have a a fully functioning 4X4). There is no electricity, no cell phone reception, donkey boilers to heat water for 2 hours a day, a big cozie fire at night and red wine - bliss! The Aberdares are in the central Highlands of Kenya and seems to be a well kept secret. The landscape is a mountainous moorland with mist rolling in at about 5pm each night - how I'd imagine the Scottish highlands to be, and probably just as freezing.

The views are spectacular, waterfalls ranging from 30Feet drops, under which you can fish and chill your beers, to 400ft drops into green miandering forests. Quite a place, definitely worth the adventure!

Wildebeests

I have been trying to describe in words the migration of Wildebeest and Zebras from the Serengeti to the green grass in the Masai Mara, but it is a very difficult task. So I thought a couple of pics would be better than my bumbling attempt at poetic writing. We were out on a drive a couple of weeks ago and it seemed that wherever you looked there were herds of thousands of animals. I haven't been out for a drive since I got back from my holiday, but herds have started moving onto the plains in front of the lodge, and apparently, just around the corner there are hundreds of thousands of wildebeest.

Proof that I am here :)

For my back packing friends

This story is specially for the 2 back packing fundis in my life who have had me in stitches many a time on their adventures around Europe, with little more than a pair of shorts and a t-shirt.

A couple of days ago 2 girls from Prague arrived here asking if they could pitch their tent on the property for the night. They were happy to pay for the piece of land, however free would be much better. As this isn't your usual camping site, the managers rallied together and eventually offered them a tent for 2, at a single, local rate...with supper.

When they returned the following day to buy bread from the camp kitchen, the two single balloon pilots from down the road were summoned to rescue the two damsels to their tented camp. The pilots were more than delighted and kept thanking us for their "gift"...mmm, that's what happens when you live alone and single in the bush too long. The four of them came bounding in for lunch the next day, hair combed, shirts tucked in, definite spring in the two men's steps to invite us for a Czech dinner.

I wish you could have all been there.

Goulash Soup and kneddlies (dumplings), under the afdak constructed as a garage, pouring rain on the banks of the Mara river, hippos calling 20m away.

The Crowd: Two Czech back backers, who on a whim decided to come to Kenya. The Israeli soldier come businessman come pilot, come businessman. A Union brick layer from Illinois, who decided to become a balloon pilot when he saw a balloon flying over his construction site one day back in Chicago, a 16 year old Swedish intern with an affinity for Tuskers...and his i-phone and the two of us.

The Conversation: Launch of the new 16 man balloon basket, the delicious 'cookies' the starving girls had found on arrival to their first tented camp, the Kneddlies, must be sweeming in seuce, the mysterious Mara murder mystery, and always, how business is going in the Mara.

All in all a very amusing evening in a very unexpected place.