Hakuna Matata

Rules to abide on future African Adventures (ie...lessons learnt on this one):

1. If the guide book suggests a 4x4 vehicle, take a 4x4
2. Either rent a vehicle from a reputable source, or trust your gut instincts (or your sisters), even if it does cost a bit more
3. Dont rent from a company that charges you cash up front
4. Check all equipment including jacks, spares, triangles etc before setting off
5. Dont hire a car that has a certificate of good conduct in the cubby hole

6. Dont forget paper towelling
7. Take 2 spare tyres
8. Be creative in breadmaking, but add salt and not sugar for the bread, as opposed to cake flavour
9. In the HIGHLY unlikely event you get a puncture and your jack doesn't work, and you have to walk through buffalo and elephant infested territory, only to find another jack that doesn't work, either a) Pile rocks under your car so that you can place the jack onto another rock to make it jack higher or b) Reverse the opposite wheels onto a bank to get the car into a position where the flat tyre is hanging in mid air (stand on opp wheel if necessary). Change tyre.
10. Use icey water from the taps or river as a fridge -white wine and Tuskers are always better cold
11. Take Hot water bottles or down sleeping bags
12. If you dont have a braai, make stok brood on the living room fire (add salt not sugar to bread)
12. Not for sensitive adventurers, best to have a handy male around who can deal with such things as baking bread and changing tyres

Fishing Lodge - Aberdares

If I were to start a yoga retreat or find a place to finish off a book I have found the place. In fact I found the place where one can recuperate and totally relax in 2 days (If that is, you have a a fully functioning 4X4). There is no electricity, no cell phone reception, donkey boilers to heat water for 2 hours a day, a big cozie fire at night and red wine - bliss! The Aberdares are in the central Highlands of Kenya and seems to be a well kept secret. The landscape is a mountainous moorland with mist rolling in at about 5pm each night - how I'd imagine the Scottish highlands to be, and probably just as freezing.

The views are spectacular, waterfalls ranging from 30Feet drops, under which you can fish and chill your beers, to 400ft drops into green miandering forests. Quite a place, definitely worth the adventure!

Wildebeests

I have been trying to describe in words the migration of Wildebeest and Zebras from the Serengeti to the green grass in the Masai Mara, but it is a very difficult task. So I thought a couple of pics would be better than my bumbling attempt at poetic writing. We were out on a drive a couple of weeks ago and it seemed that wherever you looked there were herds of thousands of animals. I haven't been out for a drive since I got back from my holiday, but herds have started moving onto the plains in front of the lodge, and apparently, just around the corner there are hundreds of thousands of wildebeest.

Proof that I am here :)

For my back packing friends

This story is specially for the 2 back packing fundis in my life who have had me in stitches many a time on their adventures around Europe, with little more than a pair of shorts and a t-shirt.

A couple of days ago 2 girls from Prague arrived here asking if they could pitch their tent on the property for the night. They were happy to pay for the piece of land, however free would be much better. As this isn't your usual camping site, the managers rallied together and eventually offered them a tent for 2, at a single, local rate...with supper.

When they returned the following day to buy bread from the camp kitchen, the two single balloon pilots from down the road were summoned to rescue the two damsels to their tented camp. The pilots were more than delighted and kept thanking us for their "gift"...mmm, that's what happens when you live alone and single in the bush too long. The four of them came bounding in for lunch the next day, hair combed, shirts tucked in, definite spring in the two men's steps to invite us for a Czech dinner.

I wish you could have all been there.

Goulash Soup and kneddlies (dumplings), under the afdak constructed as a garage, pouring rain on the banks of the Mara river, hippos calling 20m away.

The Crowd: Two Czech back backers, who on a whim decided to come to Kenya. The Israeli soldier come businessman come pilot, come businessman. A Union brick layer from Illinois, who decided to become a balloon pilot when he saw a balloon flying over his construction site one day back in Chicago, a 16 year old Swedish intern with an affinity for Tuskers...and his i-phone and the two of us.

The Conversation: Launch of the new 16 man balloon basket, the delicious 'cookies' the starving girls had found on arrival to their first tented camp, the Kneddlies, must be sweeming in seuce, the mysterious Mara murder mystery, and always, how business is going in the Mara.

All in all a very amusing evening in a very unexpected place.

Silly things

People have often considered the similarities between humans and the animal kingdom. This however is usually pertaining to the likeness of dogs and their owners, or cats fussy and sly mannerisms. I may just be slightly bos bev*k at the moment after 5 weeks away from civilisation, but have started to notice the fairly amusing likeness in behaviour of wild animals and people.

The male ostrich when in season, goes bright pink in his neck and head (almost red). He bends his legs, opens his wings, flaps them around in a kind of dance in order to draw his mates attention.

Not at all unlike young single gentlemen after a couple of beers (and maybe the odd tequila) at The Baron or Manhattan (if it still exists) in pursuit of a young lady. Flustered, slightly bar rashed cheeks, a bend in the knee and flick of the hoof as Human by the Killers comes on, and a very hopeful tap tap...

Pure Magic-mwujiza

I sometimes feel a little less than inspired to write anything down, hense the lack of daily thoughts and reflections on the adventures of me. This is rather strange however, as this place is full of so many extraordinary occurences, that I should be churning out news. But its Sunday, and most of you are probably still asleep. I on the other hand got a rude wake up call at 7am...no I have not slept in for 5 weeks. But a cup of kenyan coffee and the morning light was definitely enough to get me up and about for another eventful day.

I decided on Thursday to move away from the standard text book chapter that I have been allocated to teach and did a lesson on Music, Johnny Clegg and his song African Sky. Now there is no better way to kill a song than make unsuspecting children learn words from the song as vocabulary, especially when trying to explain what a "highway" is (not too much tarr around here), or how that relates to "stars across the heavens", but by the end of the lesson I had 11 Masai children dancing and singing African sky - it made my day! Especially as half way down the escarpment back to camp, in my open landrover it started to pour with rain, I was in my element! Literally (at the risk of sounding completely cheesy)...the rolling thunder across the savanna, underneath the African Sky... u can imagine the smell of rain which we are in desperate need of, the rivers haven't been so low in years, rain streaming into the vehicle, my clothes soaking wet and the thought of the grade 7's from Emurutoto singing a bit of johnny.

My first crossing...or two!

It isn't often that I get to drag the manager out of his camp for a drive, but every now and then I remind him of the millions of Wildebeest pronounced Wilde - ee - beasts crossing over the Mara river from the Serengeti and off we go. Last Sunday was one such day. We drove right over to the otherside of the Mara Triangle (about a 2 hour drive) in hope of seeing a river crossing. As its fairly early in the season it wasn't a given, and we hadn't left ourselves with much time. But the driver, ever a ranger spotted a herd of Wildebeest gathering on the bank on the otherside of the river, and sure enough after half an hour of patience and growing excitement they started moving down to the river. Its so difficult to verbalise the experience, once one animal decides to cross they all follow at such a rapid rate that they are often forced to move forward, even if they dont want to. The dust and motion and noise (which sounds a bit like Huntersvlei calves after they've been weaned) makes it complete mayhem. The lurking croc only adds to excitement, however due to the low water level the wildees and Zebras seem to be having an easy time of it this year and the crocs are going hungry.

We estimated about 1000 animals in the first crossing, as spoilt as I am we saw a crossing of about 4000 animals half an hour later and then on the way home to sundowners on the escarpment we found a cheetah...no other way to describe it but magic!

Chakula - Food

While my cousin is running night marathons in Dubai and a number of my friends have just completed the Knysna marathon and half marathon I am fighting to maintain my 4km, 4 times a week run rate. This is imperative, as I have to fit into a Twin Otter 12 seater aeroplane if I want to go to Zanzi with my sisters....because the food here is delicious and plentiful!

For Chefs catering for up to 80 people per meal, stuck in the middle of nowhere, with only a weekly delivery of food from Nairobi and a big shamba (vege garden) they manage to whip up the most fabulous meals, for every type of dietary requirement. That said a 7 day menu of hotel food can for your average resident become somewhat tiresome, and there are often days that I'd kill for a tuna salad or grilled chicken breasts and brown rice.

We have been known to attempt to cook the odd meal at home (no this doesn't include getting supper delivered to home and claiming it as home cooked), but a gas cooker (we have an unreliable stove), the lack of woolies...or even shoprite and chefs having to interpret ones shopping list makes for an interesting concoction. So more often than not we eat at the lodge or in the canteen.

The 7 day rotation menu means I have had the opportunity to sample a number of dishes more than once. It is however not the carrot and ginger soup, the couscous encrusted chicken or the chocolate press that have made my favourites list, but a few other morsels, all of the dangerously more-ish and fattening varieties.

• Chiapati - a roti type of wrap roll, best with anything and everything


• Tomatoe Ginger Jam - made specifically for the 5 star camp up the road, absolutely addictive (the chef, named Evans taught me how to make it - yes apron and all, so that we could keep a jar in our fridge), when lacking proper food to eat it with rice cakes or popcorn are a suitable substitute


• Banana chips - the sole reason for me going to the bar in the evening while n cohorts with guests. They look like banana chips, they are banana chips, but they taste like very crispy, salted potato chips!


• Mdazi - sugarless doughnut snacky things. Approximately once a month the clinical officer, known as the Docoteri, organises a get together for the staff, where everyone does some exercise, and a couple of people chat about motivational things, keeping healthy and having goals and determination. Although its a fun afternoon, it is during everyones down time, thus a bit of food and tea is used to lure people to the gathering. This is where I discovered Mdazi.


• Muesli - the recipe used to make homemade muesli here kicks natures sources a*s, its delicious!


• Hot chocolate - finally Charles one of the barmen makes a hot chocolate to rival hot chocolate on the Austrian ski slopes

So no, I am not starving...but the heathrow injection may happen a couple of months too early.

All in an Afternoon

Jambo

Jambo, jambo Bwana

Habari gani, Mzuri Sana

Wageni, Mwakaribishwa,

Kenya Yetu...Hakuna matata

(hello, hello Sir,

How are you, very well

visitors, you are welcome

To our country Kenya

No worries, No problem)

This is the welcome song of Kenya, haven't figured out where it originated, but if you visit you'll be blessed with a very warm welcome and song - and you can now join in!!

I've been reading other things I've written and have decided its time to give you some proper news of what I get up to round here. On Tuesdays and Thursdays I go up to Emurutoto Primary school and teach grade 7 english for an hour. As its right in the middle of Kawai village, where we have a number of community projects I often have a manager, or two or 4 joining me on my adventure. When they dont I love the freedom of being able to bumble up the hill in one of the landies (very karen blixen dont you think)...causing some amusement as the only Mzungu chick that has been seen leaving the Kichwa gate at the wheel.

Front Left - James the Kichwa Ops manager, The "Senior Coordinators" wife, The "Senior coordinator, me, stanley the Deputy GM and George the Chef in charge at Kichwa - all the the SC's hut

One of the local landlords, who calls himself the Senior Coordinator of the district (he owns a piece of prime property in the Masai mara) needed to get to another town down the road, but his vehicle, a rather clapped out sedan type of car that no doubt gets driven at 160km/hr on what can only be described as less than desireable roads (basically I drive at about 40k's per hour on these roads in a landrover) wasn't starting. Off we went with a fundi - yes this is a real person...someone who is a specialist in their field, ie Bii the mechanic to assist the man get to Cilgouris. We left Bii with the car and went to look at a piece of his property with the most exquisite view that he'd like us to use for guest cocktails and things. Unfortunately due to Mara politics (challenges that of the ANC and COPE) and the fact that the last cocktail was invaded by dogs and children from the village, it looks like an unlikely spot for now, with a promising future!

The Senior coordinator showing the managers the site - the Masai Mara in the background

With one white car fixed, a prayer and a beautiful beaded necklace gift (always a bit embarrassing to accept), and a relief that we weren't offered delicious masai chai (sweet tea, with a lot of milk...wish may be fresh, or may be a few days old, I haven't decided which is worse). We headed down the mountain in time for a run.

Our runs follow exactly the same route on the road behind the camp, the only thing that we can vary is the length of the run. That said it is quite surreal running along the road with ellie's, giraffes, zebras in the distance and at least 3 small groups of masai cattle walking past. We usually run at about 5.30, but with the weather getting colder the elephants come up the mountain earlier in the evenings, so looks like we'll have to make an earlier start.

No guests in the camp last night, an unusual event, and sign of the slow down of tourism in kenya this year - hoping and praying it picks up again. But that said it gave the management an opportunity to celebrate a job well done with one of the departments...this means NYAMA CHOMA...mmm...mmm. Braaied goat, with ugali (pap) and Mtumbu (excuse spelling) soup. This is an absolute delicacy and treat. Mtumbu soup is basically boiled tripe soup, I have tried it, so didn't feel obliged to have any for dinner. But fun to get the staff together for a bit of a razzle.

More news from the Mara coming shortly - its where its all happening!

Peoples people

For approximately 10 years, I have considered myself a peoples person. Over the past year or so, and more particularly the past couple of weeks I have started to question this idea.

There is no doubt that I love being with my family and one of my favourite past times is long boozy lunches with friends. However over the past couple of weeks in Kenya, as my boarderline introvert personality (can blame myers briggs...and the consulting notion of understanding personality types to improve team work) is becoming more and more evident, while working at the heart of the hospitality industry I have found so many new and more real meanings to the phrase "peoples people".

My true lack of understanding of myself relative to this term became evident almost immediately as I stepped off the airoplane. Every person you meet is so welcoming, the entire time. It is an energy type that I have not yet encountered. As a guest you are here for 5 days experiencing this incredible hospitality and warmth from each individual you meet and truly are made to feel at home. However as a "wekka" you are on the go for up to 2 months at a time, with absolutely no break. So what one may ask motivates the staff here? It might be tips...it probably isn't salary, but one thing is for sure - they are peoples people.

Julius is a masai man from one of the local communities. He went to school locally and then motivated himself to study community development in Nairobi. He has returned to the Mara to assist and work with ( a phrase not well understood by communities here) his community and others around to create growth and sustainability through education, income earning projects and getting things like water to these places. He works with the support of Kichwa. He has potential with guidance and support to make a great impact. For one, he understands East African and masai time, pole pole (slowly slowly), and secondly he communicates well with the local communities, and with American guests, worlds apart.

Managing people is a skill I always thought I was born with. I have recently realised I am wrong! At the open house meeting a few days ago, union shop stewards plus about 160 staff members the meeting was handled with the most incredible patience and understanding of the time needed to deal with each question, no matter how menial (or repetitive). The meeting took 3 hours...it took me a HUGE amount of will power to keep my mouth shut and not state the obvious that the question had already been answered, 3 times. Managing people here means managing exceptionally competent people, completely incompetent people, dealing with landlords, community leaders and the unions. Being available, means completely open to whatever situation may arise.

I am not sure if these talents and skills are innate or if they grow with running a business. I doubt very much that this is my core strength as i have so long assumed. For the variety of definitions of peoples people that I know I could come up with, these people fit into the category and at a heightened level.

Airballoon pilot and the otherside of the Mara

With my entire family and a couple of friends away on one of my favourite weekends of the year, shooting guinnea fowl (not for sensitive viewers) and drinking copious amounts of red wine on Huntersvlei, a spontaneous decision to go on an adventure to the otherside of the Mara proved to be good for the soul.

This came in the form of rugby and a BBQ (as one of the chef refers to braais...Bee bee queue) with 2 South African ranger trainers from tanzania (my touch of home and social companians for the past two weeks), a hilarious aussie air balloon pilot come artist and his wife, an airoplane pilot and another lodge manager or two of expat variety. We had to get to the other side of the Mara River to another camp, so all fun and games as the Mara area has extraordinarily good roads, and a 20km drive took us about and hour and a half. I had three ex rangers in the vehicle though, so wasn't in the line up for designated driver. We passed through the zebra and Wildebeest herds from the Loiter plains that are on their way to greet the migratory herds from the serengeti - quite incredible!





But I must admit the real joys of the occasion were having a braai, oh and listening to the crazy aussie as more beer was consumed, endless source of amusement! He has an attitude towards life that I last experienced in the people I worked with on the ski slopes in tahoe. Lifes great, kenya is amazing and everything else is bullsh*t, which can be taken to mean pretty much anything, from its actual meaning to the complete opposite. His favourite swahili saying is Arahaha (or something like that) which he translates to meaning maximum pleasure, all the time - that is life!





His wife (of 3 months) is great, an ex managment consultant who needed a break from the insanity and excessive hours moved to Carnarvon (one of the western australian towns...904Km north of perth - so basically in the middle of nowhere) where they met. She has just moved to Kenya to be with him, is building a house for them and doing a website designing course online...eeek, not sure I can live in the bush full time.





Anyway, festive evening and good to know there is life outside of the lodge and as in all small and distant places there are always token and awesome characters around to play with.

This is very strange me writing a blog...I know. I am not exactly the worlds biggest writer. But influenced by my jedi blogger friend I thought it may be a good way to stay in touch with everyone while I am away.

I've hit the 3 week homesick mark. At Clifton (the prep school I went to) we weren't allowed to speak to our parents for 3 weeks after we arrived at school, so I assume its that three week mark which will forever be intrenched, and lets be honest I am an Evans, so do tend towards homesickness.

That said I find myself in the most beautiful place, surrounded by incredible friendly people, who have made me feel right at home. So cant complain at all!!! And I'm busy. Straight back into consulting - I actually did learn something during my past two years at transnet. I am doing an internal project for Kichwa and also spending two afternoons a week working with the Kichwa community representative, Julius and teaching two classes of english a week, I know fairly hilarious!Anyway, I have so much news, but thought I'd just get this up and running for those of you who are vaguely interested. Please keep sending me news and I'll try my best to update this often!